A Brief Guide to Contemporary Art in Firenze

I don’t often talk about my hometown, Florence. Not because I don’t love it—though I do have a bit of a love/hate relationship with it—but mainly because it seems like the city is already thoroughly covered by countless blogs, websites, and travel guides. Florence, or Firenze as we call it, is easily one of Italy’s top three destinations, and it’s no surprise it’s also one of the most visited cities in Europe. Before the pandemic, it was often swarmed with tourists, which quickly came back in full force after all the restrictions were lifted. Some stay for a few days, others for just a few hours, and only a rare few venture beyond the well-known landmarks or explore the rest of Tuscany. While the past few years have shaken things up a bit, Florence remains a fantastic destination. And honestly, one of the things I enjoy most about living here is getting to meet people from all over the world, all within the charm of this small, historic city.

But why should you visit Firenze after all? Well, aside from my local bias, Florence remains on the radar of top travel recommendations, with its historical allure intact. In 2022, the city was named one of Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2022 top cities. And if Lonely Planet gives the thumbs up, you know it’s worth adding to your list!
Nowadays, it continues to rank high in on travel guides and top destinations, and although the tourist numbers are worringly increasing, the city offers the perfect balance of vibrancy and retreat. Whether you’re here to see the Uffizi, devour a Fiorentina steak, or embark on a contemporary art road trip across Tuscany, Florence promises to be an unforgettable stop.

And if you do, here are my favorite places for contemporary art in Firenze. Trust me, I am a local! 

Museums and contemporary art centers in Firenze

One thing Florence has long been missing is a proper contemporary art museum. Sure, we have the Pecci Museum in Prato, right outside of the city, and we used to have a sort of kunsthalle/art center back in the days (which coincidentally was my first workplace in the art world and part of the reason why I am here today). Although there have been discussions and projects proposed over the years, a major contemporary art institution is yet to materialize. Still, the city offers some fantastic alternatives that are definitely worth your time.

Museo Novecento, housed in a former hospital from the 13th century, focuses on 20th-century art with a curated selection from civic collections. While the permanent collection may not blow your mind, the temporary exhibitions and programming offer fresh perspectives on modern and contemporary art.

On the other hand, Palazzo Strozzi stands as one of Italy’s most flamboyant and eclectic exhibition spaces. In recent years, it has garnered significant attention for its provocative exhibitions, showcasing works by contemporary heavyweights such as Bill Viola, Marina Abramović, Tomas Saraceno, Ai Weiwei, and Anselm Kiefer. While they occasionally host exhibitions focused on Renaissance and modern art, their programming has increasingly leaned toward contemporary works. Be sure to visit not only for the exhibitions but also to admire the palace itself. Built in 1489, it is a stunning example of Florentine Renaissance architecture and a true gem in the heart of the city. Take a moment to explore its courtyard, often home to site-specific installations, and don’t forget to check out the Strozzina, the palace’s basement, where the foundation occasionally organizes smaller exhibitions spotlighting emerging artists.

Another must-visit spot is MAD – Murate Art District, a cultural center hosted in a stunning building that once served as a prison. Today, MAD offers exhibitions, meetings, performances and workshops focusing on contemporary themes and artistic languages, with a strongly interdisciplinary approach. Its Magazine Hall and the artists’ residences, moreover, offer a place for updating and training, research, and experimentation for both artists and visitors.

Contemporary Art Galleries in Firenze

Florence’s contemporary art scene is slowly evolving, and galleries are coming and going. Some have been around for decades, while others are fresh and edgy, pushing the boundaries of what contemporary art means in this historical city.

For a more traditional gallery experience, visit Galleria Poggiali, which has a long-standing reputation for bold exhibitions and innovative projects​. Their historical space near the Santa Maria Novella station is the perfect place to start exploring Firenze’s contemporary art scene. Another must visit is Galleria Il Ponte, one of the oldest contemporary art galleries in Florence, which continues to impress with retrospectives of 20th-century masters and contemporary artists alike.

Another standout is VEDA, almost a hybrid between a gallery and an independent space. In it’s brand new space inside the Manifattura Tabacchi, a renovated industrial complex just outside the city center, VEDA brings a New York-style vibe to Florence, showcasing thought-provoking exhibitions from international artists​. Come here for great art outside of the madness of the city center.

Lastly, I highly recommend Street Levels Gallery, which recently expanded by opening a second space in the city center. Focused primarily on street artists, the gallery provides a unique lens on the urban landscape and its needs. Over the years, it has cultivated numerous collaborations with municipalities, festivals, art exhibitions, museums, companies, associations, collectives, universities, and both public and private institutions. These partnerships have all been aimed at promoting and spreading the Urban Art movement both in Italy and internationally, making the gallery a significant player in this ever-evolving art scene.

Independent and artist-run spaces 

In recent years, Florence has seen a rise and fall of independent and artist-run spaces, opening and closing too quickly and often struggling to survive in a city that still has a lot to do for contemporary art. Nonetheless, their persistence has given Florence a fresh artistic energy and visitors one more reason to visit!

The first stop should necessarily be the Manifattura Tabacchi. As mentioned earlier, it used to be an industrial complex, that is undergoing a long process of renovations and will eventually be turned into a cool artistic complex right outside of the city center, with artisans workshops, art spaces, schools, and studios. So far, inside Manifattura Tabacchi you can find the above-mentioned VEDA, together with a number of local artisans and artists studios, bars, and a rich program of events. Moreover, you can come here for Toast Project Space, a small exhibition space hosted in the former porter’s lodge of the complex, and for NAM – Not A Museum, the contemporary art branch of the whole project.

Last but not least, there’s La Portineria, a relatively new space located in a residential area outside the city center. Founded in 2020, this research-focused space provides a platform for young, local, and international artists to engage with the community through site-specific installations and exhibitions​

Cover image by Massimiliano Morosinotto on Unsplash